The Appropos was a bright streetside Copenhagen eatery, as finely appointed as the Madklubben but busier: It seemed like the right place for a burger, of which there were a variety on the menu.
Now, I like burgers. Weened on Seattle's Dick's and the Burgermaster, Frisko Freeze in Tacoma, I'm always looking for a good one (as I do a goulash, shawarma and escargot)—and am too often disappointed in restaurants that only try to outdo the competition in the thickness of their patties and the monument and tomatoes and greens they pile on top of the meat.
The Appropos was a distinct treat.
Their burger—I don't know how many grams, but a little less than a quarter-pound in a hand- formed patty—was gorgeous as well as delicious: The meat was veiled in a veal glace and onion compote, topped with cheese and a slight tomato sauce.
The bun was a treat. Home-made, crispy on the outside and pillowy around the meat, it was cut as a triangle and filled with just enough salad to balance the sandwich (no towering ego-trip on the part of the chef at the griddle).
Delicious.
(Author's Note: I've never had a Wendy's burger, but I've been intrigued by the square patty they use—and rather confused as to why they don't use a square bun...the equivalent are available at Safeway, for God's sake! Wendy's has a butcher, don't they have a baker?
And I wondered why this amazing Appropos burger wasn't formed to match its superb bap.
Ah well...not everyone is as interested in the aesthetics of the hamburger as I.)
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